Quick update

Just a quick update.
Today I had finished putting back together another engine  I had dismantled.
Getting the Carburettors back together


Me holding the Carburettors up

Putting the final components on the engine:




And putting the engine back on the stern leg:

The following two images are for Zack:

Diesel work continued

Why do we need an lift pump on diesel engine?

A diesel pump works by taking in the low pressure fuel and increasing the pressure before being fed top the injectors. The diesel pump needs to be timed in order to deliver fuel to the right injector at the right time. If the timing is incorrect the motor would not have enough fuel to run correctly.

Info from: http://calvinbayley.blogspot.com/2011/06/diesel.html 

 

Image from: http://www.dslautomotive.co.nz/what.htm

Why do we need a electronic fuel shut of valve?

A solenoid valve is an electromechanical valve controlled by an electric current. The electric current runs through a solenoid, which is a wire coil wrapped around a metallic core. A solenoid creates a controlled magnetic field when an electrical current is passed through it. This magnetic field affects the state of the solenoid valve, causing the valve to open or close. Diesel fuel shut-off solenoids transport diesel fuel from a machine's gas tank to its engine. A diesel fuel shut-off solenoid is attached to the machine's main electrical system, which can monitor and detect abnormal temperatures or mechanical malfunctions. Should something go wrong, the electrical current running to the solenoid will be interrupted, causing the solenoid valve to close and shutting off the supply of diesel fuel to the engine.

The Shut off solenoid

The solenoid coil

Info and images from: http://www.ehow.com/how-does_5016171_diesel-fuel-shutoff-solenoids-work.html

The knock sensor:

A knock sensor is screwed into the side of the engine block and allows the engine to run with the ignition timing as far advanced as possible. The computer will continue to advance the timing until the knock sensor detects pinging. At that point the computer retards the ignition timing just enough for the pinging to stop.  

A knock sensor assures that you're getting as much power and fuel economy as is possible from your engine.

Info from: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_does_a_knock_sensor_do

 

Image from: http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/lsvtec/lsvtec.php

How the diesel injector works:

A video found on YouTube on how the diesel injectors work:

Why and How do you bleed the fuel system?

BLEEDING THE FUEL SYSTEM:

It will be necessary to bleed the fuel system to achieve a steady air free flow of fuel

 

BLEEDING PROCEDURE:

Be sure to have some means available to catch or absorb any fuel escaping during the bleeding process so that it will not accumulate in the engine compartment or bilge.

1. Be sure there is a sufficient supply of fuel in the fuel tank.

2. Open the fuel shut-off valve at the tank.

3. Start the electric fuel pump by turning the ignition key to the "ON" position

4. Turn engine over with starter. Crank at 10 second intervals while doing steps 5 and 7.

5. Slowly loosen the air bleed plug on the fuel filter, letting air escape until an air free flow of fuel is evident.

6. At this time, tighten the air bleed plug on the filter.

7. Slowly loosen the air bleed plug on the injector pump, letting air escape until an air free flow of fuel is evident. Units with a self bleed return valve, open for a short period then start engine, as soon as engine runs smooth close valve.

8. At this time, tighten the air bleed plug or knurled knob on the injector pump.

9. The fuel system should now be properly bled and ready for operation.

Refer to starting instructions before attempting to start the engine after bleeding the fuel system.

CAUTION: Excessive cranking with sea cock valve open can cause water accumulation in the muffler and possibly back up into the engine. Drain muffler as needed.

 

FUEL INJECTORS:

Fuel injectors should be removed and taken to a qualified diesel engine repair center to be tested for leakage and spray pattern, if poor engine performance such as loss of power, rough or uneven running, sudden notice of dark exhaust, or engine becomes hard to start.

 

REMOVING INJECTORS:

1. Clean the area around the injectors before removing.

2. Loosen nuts holding fuel lines to injector pump and injector nozzle and remove fuel lines

3. Loosen nuts on return line adapters and remove adapters

4. Loosen injectors and remove injectors.

 

REPLACING INJECTORS:

1. Check to be sure contact surfaces and area around injectors is clean.

2. Replace injectors in the same cylinder from which they were removed.

3. Torque required to properly seat the injectors will be between 43 and 58 ft./lbs.

4. Replace fuel return lines and secure nuts.

5. Replace all fuel lines and secure all nuts.

6. After all injectors, fuel lines and hoses have been replaced and are secured, the fuel system will have to be bled.

Be sure the fuel injection pump has been set at the factory and should need no adjustment. Any apparent problem with the pump should be referred to a qualified diesel mechanic or to a Universal Diesel dealer as advised.

Info from: http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/universal/200157/universal-owners-manual-bleeding-fuel-system.html

How the turbo works:

Turbochargers are a type of forced induction system. They compress the air flowing into the engine. The advantage of compressing the air is that it lets the engine squeeze more air into a cylinder, and more air means that more fuel can be added. Therefore, you get more power from each explosion in each cylinder. In order to achieve this boost, the turbocharger uses the exhaust flow from the engine to spin a turbine, which in turn spins an air pump. The turbine in the turbocharger spins at speeds of up to 150,000 rotations per minute (rpm) -- that's about 30 times faster than most car engines can go. And since it is hooked up to the exhaust, the temperatures in the turbine are also very high.

Info from: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/turbo.htm

A video from YouTube about how turbo chargers work:

Parts of a turbo charger:

Image from: http://www.cubiccapacity.com/auto-tech-speak-turbocharger/

Another video from YouTube showing a turbocharger in action and it’s effect on the engine:

Why do we need a Turbo on a diesel engine?

Most diesels are now turbocharged and some are both turbo charged and supercharged. Because diesels do not have fuel in the cylinder before combustion is initiated, more than one bar (100 kPa) of air can be loaded in the cylinder without preignition. A turbocharged engine can produce significantly more power than a naturally aspirated engine of the same configuration. Turbo charging can improve the fuel economy of diesel engines by recovering waste heat from the exhaust, increasing the excess air factor, and increasing the ratio of engine output to friction losses.

Info from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel_engine#Supercharging_and_turbocharging

 What is a supercharger?

A supercharger is any device that pressurizes the air intake to above atmospheric pressure. Both superchargers and turbochargers do this. In fact, the term "turbocharger" is a shortened version of "turbo-supercharger," its official name. Superchargers are powered mechanically by belt- or chain-drive from the engine's crankshaft.

A video of a supercharger being wined up: (The supercharger in in the front of the engine)

How much power is too much power?

What do you mean ‘it’s too big’?

Image from: http://socialpathology.blogspot.com/2011/05/supercharger.html

An internal view of a supercharger:

Image from: http://www.redlined.org/images/superchargers/super-charger-13.jpg

What is the difference between a turbo and a super charger?

A supercharger is driven directly from the engine and thus its boost output is directly related to engine speed. A turbocharger is more directly controlled by the pressure of the exhaust gases which, as well as increasing with engine speed, also vary significantly with engine load.

Info from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbodiesel#Turbochargers_v._superchargers_for_diesel_engines

Two photos showing the setup differences between a turbo, and a supercharger:

Images from: http://otomotifashion.com/turbochanger-vs-super-changer/

Why we need an after/inter-cooler on a diesel:

An intercooler is a simply a heat exchanger mounted between the turbo-charger, or super-charger and the inlet side of the engine. Cold air is blown through it to cool down the hot, compressed air inside; this makes it denser and gives maybe another 10% more power.

Info from: http://autorepair.about.com/cs/generalinfo/a/aa102001a_2.htm

What is the difference between direct and in direct diesel injection?

Direct injection:

Direct injection injectors are mounted in the top of the combustion chamber. The problem with these vehicles was the harsh noise they produced. Fuel consumption was about 15 to 20 percent lower than indirect injection diesels, which for some buyers was enough to compensate for the extra noise.

Info from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel_engine#Direct_injection

Image from: http://www.uiweb.uidaho.edu/bioenergy/Combust_Emisns.shtml

In direct injection:

An indirect injection diesel engine delivers fuel into a chamber off the combustion chamber, called a pre-chamber or ante-chamber, where combustion begins and then spreads into the main combustion chamber, assisted by turbulence created in the chamber. This system allows for a smoother, quieter running engine, and because combustion is assisted by turbulence, injector pressures can be lower, about 100 bar (10 MPa; 1,500 psi), using a single orifice tapered jet injector.

Info from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel_engine#Indirect_injection

A video showing the IDI principle:

What is the purpose of a governor?

A vital component of all diesel engines is a governor which regulates the idling speed and maximum speed of the engine by controlling the rate of fuel delivery. Unlike Otto-cycle engines, incoming air is not throttled and a diesel engine without a governor cannot have a stable idling speed and can easily over speed, resulting in its destruction.

Info from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel_engine#Fuel_delivery 

Image from: http://www.tb-training.co.uk/CIsys.htm

hat is the difference between a diesel and a common rail diesel?

In common rail systems, the separate pulsing high pressure fuel line to each cylinder's injector is also eliminated. Instead, a high-pressure pump pressurizing fuel at up to 2,500 bar (250 MPa; 36,000 psi), a "common rail". The common rail is a tube that supplies each computer-controlled injector containing a precision-machined nozzle and a plunger driven by a solenoid or piezoelectric actuator. (similar to a 4 stroke petrol)

Info from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel_engine#Common_rail_direct_injection

So, here is a common rail diesel engine:

Image from: http://www.swedespeed.com/news/publish/Features/printer_272.html

and here is a normal diesel engine:

Image from: http://gmgenuineparts.wordpress.com/

Work room update

I know it’s been ages since I updated last… But I have a good reason. This is what has been happing over the last week:

Diesel Work

First of all, what is a diesel engine?

A diesel engine (also known as a compression-ignition engine) is an internal combustion engine that uses the heat of compression to initiate ignition to burn the fuel, which is injected into the combustion chamber.

Info from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel_engine

The following  from Youtube shows a diesel engine

Who invented the diesel engine and when?

A little history of the inventor:

Rudolf Diesel, of German ethnicity, was born in 1858 in Paris. He was educated at Munich Polytechnic and after graduation, was employed as a refrigerator engineer, but more preferred engine design. In 1893 he described a slow-combustion engine that first compressed air thereby raising its temperature above the igniting-point of the fuel, then gradually introducing fuel while letting the mixture expand against resistance sufficiently to prevent an essential increase of temperature and pressure, then cutting off fuel and expanding without transfer of heat. His first successful engine was in 1897. His engine was the first to prove that fuel could be ignited solely with high compression.

Info from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diesel_engine#History

 

Image from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Diesel_1883.jpg

What fuel pressure would you get from a diesel pump?

The pump develops great pressure—typically 15,000 psi (100 MPa) or more on newer systems. This is a good reason to take great care when working on diesel systems; escaping fuel at this sort of pressure can easily penetrate skin and clothes, and be injected into body tissues with medical consequences serious enough to warrant amputation. So, treat a diesel pump like a baby… with ALOT of care.

Info from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Injection_pump#Safety 

This is a Diesel pump from a 12Cyl Diesel engine

Image from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:12Zyl-Reiheneinspritzpumpe.jpg

How does the diesel pump work and why do we need to time the pump?

Traditionally, the pump is driven indirectly from the crankshaft by gears, chains or a toothed belt (often the timing belt) that also drives the camshaft on overhead-cam engines (OHC). The pump rotates at half crankshaft speed in a conventional four-stroke engine and its timing is such that the fuel is injected only very slightly before top dead centre on the next-in-line cylinder's compression stroke (The next cylinder to be fired).

Info from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Injection_pump

Why do we need to time the pump?

If the pump isn’t timed up properly to the engine, the engine would misfire, fire too early, or cause other major problems which would most possibly lead to the entire engine needing replacement.

How do you time the pump and with what equipment would you use?

FUEL INJECTION TIMING:
Unless major repair work is done on the engine, timing should not be required.

Basic tools required:
(A) - 10 MM Socket wrench
(B) - 13 MM Socket wrench
(C) - 17 MM Open end wrench
(D) - 12 MM Box end wrench
(E) - 27 MM Socket (1-1/16")

Engine firing order - Two cylinder - 1 - 2
(Front V belt end)
Three cylinder - 1 - 2 - 3
Four cylinder - 1 - 3 - 4 – 2

1. Remove fuel lines from injector pump fittings on injector pump (Tool C).
2. Pull decompression lever so that it will remain in the decompression position. No decompression lever on Model-i 2.
3. Open throttle fully.
4. Energize electric fuel pump and turn engine over with starter to ensure that fuel is coming out of each injector pump opening. Have clean rags around opening to soak up fuel.
5. Wipe off any fuel on injector pump body and the top of each injector opening.
6. Turn crankshaft over by hand, being careful not to damage spline on end of crankshaft. Engine rotation will be clockwise. STOP IMMEDIATELY at the first sign of fuel movement in the injector pump fuel fitting, for whichever injector pump is being checked. (No. 1 injector pump is the closest to the V-belt end of the engine).
7. Remove cover from flywheel timing mark inspection hold located inside of left engine mount (Tool B).
8. Check alignment of mark on flywheel with the timing pointer on the wall of the inspection hole. The 1-Fl mark on the flywheel represents fuel injection of No. 1 cylinder. 2-Fl represents No. 2 cylinder, etc.
9. If timing pointer and the flywheel marking 1-Fl is aligned then No. 1 cylinder is properly timed for fuel injection and should require no adjustment. The same will be true for No. 2, No. 3 and No. 4 cylinders if the above steps are followed.
10. In order to determine if timing is off, or if the injection pump is faulty, it is necessary to recheck the timing for each cylinder two or three times.
11 If there are variations in repeatability in the alignment of pointer and timing mark, a faulty fuel injector pump may be suspected.
12. If timing marks repeat to same location but are off 3/16" or more above or below the pointer, this indicates that the engine must be retimed.
If alignment of the timing mark is not within 3/16" above or below the pointer, the above steps must be taken to time the engine, If the timing is found to be satisfactory, then reconnect all fuel lines and fittings and tighten. The fuel system must be bled before the engine will operate properly. (See fuel bleeding instructions else where in this manual).

Info from: http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/universal/200157/universal-owners-manual-fuel-injection-timing.html

What is the purpose of a glow plug and how do you test the circuit?

A glowplug (alternately spelled as glow plug or glow-plug) is a heating device used to aid starting diesel engines. (Kind of like a choke, with out cutting off air supply) What happens when the ignition is turned on is, the power from the battery goes to the glowplugs turning them on which makes them heat up, heating up the cylinders to a high enough temperature so that the diesel being injected while the engine is cranking has a high chance to ignite.

Info from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glowplug

Image from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Glow_plug.JPG

How do you check/test the circuit?

Testing glow plugs – the right way!

Step 1: The current input is tested at the main electrical connection to the glow plug using a ammeter clamp. If there are four glow plugs in the engine and each one requires 5 amperes, for example, the total current input has to be 20 amperes. If the measurement indicates a lower value, at least one of the glow plugs is defective. The current input varies from glow plug to glow plug. The data for all NGK glow plugs can be found at www.ngk.de/pro.

Step 2: If one glow plug is defective, we recommend replacing the entire set. If only one defective glow plug is replaced, each glow plug has to be tested separately. The resistance between the terminal nut and the metal housing is measured using an instrument that can indicate low test voltages.

Proceed as follows:

• Remove glow plug
• Clean threads of all rust, dirt, oil or paint
• Apply electrodes of the measuring device to the glow plug
• If the resistance value is around ∞ Ω, the glow plug is defective.
• If the resistance value is below 5 Ω, the glow plug is okay.

Info and image from: http://www.ngk-dpower.com/index.php?id=31&L=2

An easier and faster way to check if a glow plug is working is: simply remove the plug and attach power leads from the battery to the correct parts of the plug. (Positive to terminal and earth to shell) If the tip glows within 20 seconds, the glow plug works. If the tip doesn’t glow within 20 or more seconds, the glow plug is dead and you’ll need to get a new one.

Info from watching Rob checking glow plugs the EASY way.

Another update. O_o

We was making  gaskets and stuff

My gasket was in the shape as shown.

I got that gasket paper on and pushed it down around the edges to get the shape of the gasket. then I used the ball bit of a ball-pien hammer to lightly tap the edges to reveal the gasket lining.

Got the outer lining done and the holes for the screws punched out. Then on with the inner bit.
 
Got the inner part punched out and the gasket is made! Now let’s fit this thingy back to the engine.

So far so good…

Yes! The gasket works!

Awesome! If you look closely between the engine head block and water circulation joint. We have a gasket!

Yet another update (I should do these less often)

An update on the progress in the work room:

Taking apart impellor pumps on Stern legs.

So here’s the stern leg I was working on. (heavy dog)

Me undoing the bolts on the impellor housing.

Me removing the impellor housing.

It’s off.

 

Looking at the impellor and removed it from it’s housing. (using small flat bladed screw driver. It wasn’t easy)

And finally, here’s me writing a report about the condition of each component I removed. (I took this picture myself)

Blog set up

Ok, cause I can't seem to find the right colour combo for my page, I'll stick with these colours for a while. >_> (can you read it now Rob??? :p)

Diesel work

Diesel work is still being worked on. Watch this space.

Update

Just another quick update on what's been going on in the work room(s)

Thursday:
We were timing diesel pumps, and this is the engine me and Lee were working on.

So, we loosened the tensioner, undid the belt like so, and i had the pleasure of taking the gear off which is (was) attached to the shaft of the pump timer.

We took the bolts off holding the pump timer in place, showed Rob, and he told us to put it back on.

 So, after putting the pump back on, we had to get the angle just right. (which took a little while)

And.... that's about correct I suppose... What do you think?

Niel thought we needed help, (which we didn't) so, he rudely barged in and showed us what we (me and Lee) what we had to do, although we had already done it!

Looks like we never touched it...

Afterwards, we headed down into another room to check out injector spray patterns.

Rob is just tellin us how this machine works. (come to think of it... how does it work? Seriously!?!)

And we got an awesome spray pattern. :3

Frieday:

Not much of us were around,.. we was just playin around with some circuits. (and I blew a fuse)

Steve telling us what we are gonna be doing with these big blocks of wood filled with electronic components

Calvin figuring out the setup

Calvin connecting the wires and correct points.

A successfully working circut

Calvin using the multimeter to testing different connections and voltage drop etc