Saturday, July 9, 2011

Welding

What colours are these bottles, how are they stored, transport when refilling them
Pressure gauges?
welding hoses?
Welding torch?
welding tips?
Flashback arrestors?
What flames are used for different metals?

How to Identify the difference:

  Oxygen:

The oxygen cylinder is coloured black, and has a tall thin casing. The threads for attaching the pressure gauge are right handed, same as hose connections. Bottled oxygen is used for welding purposes and cannot be used as a substitute for compressed air. The hose for these are either blue or black in colour.

appb3

Image from: http://www.meg.co.uk/courses/q1.php

Acetylene:

The acetylene bottles are usually shorter than Oxygen bottles and a lot rounder in diameter. They are coloured maroon so that you can tell that it is different from the oxygen cylinder. These bottles are under pressure, generally 100Kpa or 15Psi. The threads on these cylinders are left handed, same as connections for that specified cylinder. The hose for acetylene cylinders are usually red and the bottles must be shut off after every use.

Acetylene-cylinder

Image from: http://www.zsqts.com.cn/Acetylene-cylinder-p-132484

Transportation:

If you are using/have a portable gas welding plant:

Both cylinders must be chained/securely fastened to the trolley/carrier. If it is a fixed welding plant, make sure both cylinders are standing up and/or secured, it doesn't generally matter if the oxygen bottle lies on its side or sits straight up as the compressed air is not explosive and wont explode when the tip is knocked. Never put oil or grease on the threads of gauges or regulators as this can cause an explosion. Always leave a bottle key cylinder valve as this helps make it easier to turn off in the event of a fire or flashback. Always turn these off after use.

An Oxygen cylinder on  a trolley which is secured by a chain:

OCT1-Oxygen-Cylinder-Truck-2

mage from: http://www.rapidracking.com/p/3/49/9914/Handling%20and%20Steps/Sack%20Trucks%20and%20Kick%20Steps/Oxygen%20Cylinder%20Truck.htm

Pressure gauges:

There are two parts to pressure regulators: one gauge shows the amount of pressure in the bottle, where the other gauge shows the amount of pressure in the hose/gas line. these devices are sensitive and cant handle much tampering. During set up and close down, you must always turn on/off the line pressure of the acetylene first, as this this is the fuel for the flame. Set up and closing down will be explained further bellow these sentences.

welding-co2-pressure-regulator

Image from: http://www.tradevv.com/chinasuppliers/lhpressuregauge_p_1905df/china-Welding-CO2-PRESSURE-REGULATOR.html

Welding hoses:

  The hoses in gas welding are very specific and simple. one is black or blue with a right handed thread which is used for the oxygen bottle, where the acetylene hose is red with a left handed thread made just for that specific bottle. it will be impossible to get these two mixed up as their threads are very specific and wont attach to the other bottle. For example: If you try to the acetylene hose on the oxygen bottle, the opposing threads will disallow the two ends to connect.

Oxygen welding hose 

Oxygen-Welding-Hose

Image from: http://zhudajin.en.made-in-china.com/offer/ZqImXeiDhAYp/Sell-Oxygen-Welding-Hose.html

Acetylene welding hose

WELDING_HOSE_TWIN_AND_SINGLE_FOR_OXYGEN_AND_ACETYL__272_0_1293263671

Image from: http://www.air-compressor-hose.com/product_3841_WELDING_HOSE_TWIN_AND_SINGLE_FOR_OXYGEN_AND_ACETYL.html

Setting up and closing down:

durring set up:

. Ensure that the bottle pressures are at the correct pressure (acetylene would be at 15Psi)

. Turn on the acetylene line pressure tap one and a half turns

. Open the valve tap on the torch half a turn.

. Adjust the pressure regulator until the gauge indicates the desired pressure.

. When you have checked that you are at the desired pressure, close the valve on the torch.

. The same procedure applies to the oxygen as well.

. Once you have done  all this, you may commence with your project/work.

Closing down:

. Turn off the acetylene tap on the torch to put out the flame.
. turn the oxygen of at the torch. You can leave it like this for a break but never leave it like this when you officially finish and should really be done if you intend on being away for a long time.
. Turn off the line pressure for both cylinders, starting with the acetylene first.
. Open the oxygen on the torch to release the line pressure. When the gauge reads zero turn the valve on torch off.
. Release the pressure on the regulator diaphragm.
. Do exactly the same of the acetylene.

Welding torch:

  A welding torch head is used to weld metals. It can be identified by having only one or two pipes running to the nozzle and no oxygen-blast trigger and two valve knobs at the bottom of the handle letting the operator adjust the oxygen flow and fuel flow.

Info from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxy-fuel_welding_and_cutting#Welding_torch

Types_of_gas_torch_head

Image from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxy-fuel_welding_and_cutting#Welding_torch

Welding tips:

The size of the flame can be adjusted to a limited extent by the valves on the torch and by the regulator settings, but in the main it depends on the size of the orifice in the tip. In fact, the tip should be chosen first according to the job at hand, and then the regulators set accordingly.

  Info from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxy-fuel_welding_and_cutting#Types_of_flame

wholesale-Welding-Cutting-Torch_733895784d490f95c24ed4web_up_file

Image from: http://www.chinawholesaletown.com/wholesale-Welding-Torch/

Flash back arrestors:

A flashback arrestor or flame arrestor is a device most commonly used in oxy-fuel welding and cutting to stop the flame from burning back up into the equipment and causing damage or explosions. The two main types are dry and wet. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages. Most oxy-fuel flashback arrestors are the dry type

Info from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flashback_arrestor

Flashback_arresters

Image from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flashback_arrestor

Flashback arrestor-Dry type:

Dry flashback arrestors typically use a combination of methods to stop flashback. This is the type that is typically found on most workshops, home or portable oxy-fuel kits as they work just as effectively with any orientation, need very little maintenance, and are often small and light enough to be installed between the torch and hoses. They include:

  • Flame trap to cool the flame front. They are designed to allow free flow of gas through them but to take the heat out of the flame front to get it below the ignition temperature of the burning gas mixture. The most common types are:
    • Sintered metal or ceramic.
    • Layers of mesh.
    • Ceramic beads.
  • Temperature-triggered valves to stop the gas flow completely. Because it relies on extracting heat from the flashback to stop it continuing, most arrestors have a temperature-controlled valve that will cut off the gas flow when the unit reaches around 90°C, until either the unit cools (if the unit is automatic) or the reset button is pressed (if the unit is manual).
  • A check valve that closes due to the back pressure.

A video found on YouTube showing a dry flash back arrestor (intense sound):

Info from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flashback_arrestor

sg3-268x320

Image from: http://www.procut.cz.cc/regulator—.html

Flashback arrestors-Wet:

Liquid seal flame arrestors are liquid barriers following the principle of a siphon where the liquid stops the entering deflagration and/or detonation and extinguishes the flame, they work by bubbling the gas through a non-flammable and ideally non-gas-absorbing liquid, which is typically water. They stop the flame by preventing it from reaching the submerged intake. These devices are normally very effective at stopping flashbacks from reaching the protected side of the system. They have the disadvantages of only working in one orientation and tend to be much larger than dry type arrestors. This makes them mainly only suitable for large or fixed installations and the liquid level needs to be constantly checked. On smaller units having a pressure release valve to prevent the unit from bursting under a severe flashback, the fluid level should be monitored to keep it always above the intake and not so high that the liquid could splash or overflow into the outlet.

Info from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flashback_arrestor

Flashback_arresters

Image from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flashback_arrestor

What flames are used for different metals?

There are three types of flames: Carbonising, Oxidising, and Neutral.

The neutral flame is the flame most generally used when welding or cutting. The welder uses the neutral flame as the starting point for all other flame adjustments because it is so easily defined. This flame is attained when welders slowly open the oxygen valve on the torch body, first see only two flame zones. At that point, the acetylene is being completely burned in the welding oxygen and surrounding air. The flame is chemically neutral. The two parts of this flame are the light blue inner cone and the darker blue to colourless outer cone. The inner cone is where the acetylene and the oxygen combine. The tip of this inner cone is the hottest part of the flame. It is approximately 6,000 °F (3,300 °C) and provides enough heat to easily melt steel. In the inner cone the acetylene breaks down and partly burns to hydrogen and carbon monoxide, which in the outer cone combine with more oxygen from the surrounding air and burn.

Info from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxy-fuel_welding_and_cutting#Types_of_flame

 Neutral flame

Image from: http://www.twi.co.uk/content/jk3.html

Carbonising flame:

An excess of acetylene creates a carbonizing flame. This flame is characterized by three flame zones; the hot inner cone, a white-hot "acetylene feather", and the blue-collared outer cone. This is the type of flame observed when oxygen is first added to the burning acetylene. The feather is adjusted and made ever smaller by adding increasing amounts of oxygen to the flame. The unburned carbon insulates the flame and drops the temperature to approximately 5,000 °F (2,800 °C). The reducing flame is typically used for hardfacing operations or backhand pipe welding techniques. The feather is caused by incomplete combustion of the acetylene to cause an excess of carbon in the flame. Some of this carbon is dissolved by the molten metal to carbonize it. The carbonizing flame will tend to remove the oxygen from iron oxides which may be present, a fact which has caused the flame to be known as a "reducing flame".

Info from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxy-fuel_welding_and_cutting#Types_of_flame

 Carburising flame

Images from: http://www.twi.co.uk/content/jk3.html

Oxidising flame:

The Oxidizing flame is the third possible flame adjustment. It occurs when the ratio of oxygen to acetylene required for a neutral flame has been changed to give an excess of oxygen. This flame type is observed when welders add more oxygen to the neutral flame. This flame is hotter than the other two flames because the combustible gases will not have to search so far to find the necessary amount of oxygen, nor heat up as much thermally inert carbon. It is called an oxidizing flame because of its effect on metal. This flame adjustment is generally not preferred. The oxidizing flame creates undesirable oxides to the structural and mechanical detriment of most metals. In an oxidizing flame, the inner cone acquires a purplish tinge, gets pinched and smaller at the tip, and the sound of the flame gets harsh. A slightly oxidizing flame is used in braze-welding and bronze-surfacing while a more strongly oxidizing flame is used in fusion welding certain brasses and bronzes.

Info from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxy-fuel_welding_and_cutting#Types_of_flame

 Oxidising flame

Image from: http://www.twi.co.uk/content/jk3.html

Some info referred from: http://perrinshovel.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2011-05-18T15%3A01%3A00%2B12%3A00&max-results=7

Sunday, July 3, 2011

Health and safety

What is Health & Safety???

Health & Safety is a set of guidelines made to be followed to keep people safe while in a potentially  hazardous work zone. This includes warring the correct PPE (Personal Protective Equipment) such as Overalls, Steel toed boots, Hard hats/Safety helmet, Gloves, and Eye and Ear protection. Apart from having the correct PPE, you must also have equipment which can prevent major hazards from occurring, such as: fire extinguishers, each for every different type of fire, First Aid kits/boxes, and fire exits(with nothing blocking them preventing your escape during a fire break out.) You must also know how to handle the workshop tools properly. e.g Hammers, Lathes, etc

Items you need in your work industry to keep yourself and others safe from hazards:

YOU MUST ALWAYS WEAR:
Overalls:
Overalls are one of the main requirements needed to even enter a workshop, along with steel toed boots(safety boots), overalls act like a barrier around your body to keep yourself protected from hot metal shards flying at you when doing some angle grinding or welding, or when someone else is creating a shower of sparks in your direction. Cotton overalls are best because the material is thick and won’t burn or melt down. Overalls which are 360gsm is recommended.

Info from: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1KBLBvt5Wi7aOxFv1kEW3n872EU8-cwoUHjcIZ802KxQ/edit?hl=en_US

PBUC_Overalls

Image from: http://tactical.co.nz/Shop/PID/2bc8e177-e762-102b-9811-2041e7c4225a/LINK/Pub.Shop.Product_BTN_DETAILS2bc8e177-e762-102b-9811-2041e7c4225a/TYPE/details/ROOT/Tactical

Steel toed boots/safety boots:

Steel toed boots are another required item needed to enter a workshop as they will protect your feet from being crushed/injured in any way. The steel tips are shaped to cover your toes and a small percentage of your foot. Although traditionally made of steel, the reinforcement can also be made of a composite material, or a plastic such as thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU). Steel-toe boots are important in the construction industry and in many industrial settings. Occupational safety and health legislation or insurance requirements may require the use of such boots in some settings, and may mandate certification of such boots and the display of such certification directly on the boots.

A little detail about Steel toed boots:

Protection area:                  Type of protection:

Steel Toe:                            .Basic Impact 200 joules including compression 15,000 newtons.

                                              .200 joule toecap protection. Closed seat region (fully enclosed heel)

                                              .Antistatic properties

                                              .Energy absorption of seat region

                                              .Closed seat region (fully enclosed heel)

                                              .Water penetration and water absorption resistance

                                              .Sole penetration resistance

                                              .Cleated outsole

Additional protections:     .Outsole resistance to hot contact: up to 300 °C

                                              .Penetration resistance offered by a steel midsole: 1100newtons

                                              .Heel energy absorption: 20 joules

                                              .Water penetration-resistant uppers

Electrical resistance:          .Conductive: Maximum resistance 100 kΩ

                                              .Antistatic: Range of 100 kΩ to 1000 MΩ

Hostile environments:       .Insulation against cold

                                              .Insulation against heat

Info from: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1KBLBvt5Wi7aOxFv1kEW3n872EU8-cwoUHjcIZ802KxQ/edit?hl=en_US

Steel toed boots

Image from: http://www.famousfootwear.com/shopping/productdetails.aspx?p=73563&pg=1000203

Hard hats/Safety helmets:

Because hard hats are intended to protect the wearer's head from impacts where heavy labour is being performed, they are made from durable materials, originally from metal, then fibreglass, and most-commonly rigid plastic. Hard hats must be worn when you are in a work zone where objects could fall from dangerous heights knocking you unconscious, and/or killing you. Hard hats are designed to withstand the sudden impact of any object and keeping the worker completely unharmed. (Except for his brown undies)

Info from: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1KBLBvt5Wi7aOxFv1kEW3n872EU8-cwoUHjcIZ802KxQ/edit?hl=en_US

hard_hat_large

Image from: http://www.aceworkwear.com.au/product-Hard-Hat.html

Gloves:

Gloves are needed to protect your hand from being injured while working on  machine which has the potential to do damage to the body. Leather gloves are best as they are thick and can protect your hands from virtually everything. Gloves would be needed if you are: welding, using an angle grinder, trimming something on a stone grinder, and using a drill press.

Info from: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1KBLBvt5Wi7aOxFv1kEW3n872EU8-cwoUHjcIZ802KxQ/edit?hl=en_US

safety_gloves_premium

Image from: http://www.triginstruments.co.nz/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=460

Safety Glasses:

Safety glasses are usually made with shatter-resistant plastic lenses to protect the eye from flying debris. Although safety lenses may be constructed from a variety of materials of various impact resistance, certain standards suggest that they maintain a minimum 1 millimeter thickness at the thinnest point, regardless of material. Safety glasses can vary in the level of protection they provide. For example, those used in the hospitals, may be expected to protect against blood splatter while safety glasses in a factory might have stronger lenses and a stronger frame with additional shields at the temples to protect from sawdust, flying wood, or metal. The lenses of safety glasses can also be shaped for correction.Safety glasses are to be worn all the time while in a workshop, or else your eyes will be taken out.

Info from: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1KBLBvt5Wi7aOxFv1kEW3n872EU8-cwoUHjcIZ802KxQ/edit?hl=en_US

Safety glasses

Image from: http://www.ccohs.ca/oshanswers/prevention/ppe/glasses.html

Ear protection:

If people are exposed to excessively noisy environments (90 dB or more), Ear muffs are necessary to prevent ear damage. They should be worn whenever power tools, noisy yard equipment, or unsuppressed firearms are used. The table below shows how easy it is to exceed the maximum exposure levels.

Level of noise (dB(A))     Maximum daily exposure time
85                                           8 Hours
91                                           2 Hours
97                                           30 Minutes
103                                         7 Minutes

Info from: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1KBLBvt5Wi7aOxFv1kEW3n872EU8-cwoUHjcIZ802KxQ/edit?hl=en_US

Did you know hard hats came with pre fitted ear muffs?

Hard hat ear muffs

Image from: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1KBLBvt5Wi7aOxFv1kEW3n872EU8-cwoUHjcIZ802KxQ/edit?hl=en_US

Fire Extinguishers:

A fire extinguisher is an active fire protection device used to extinguish or control small fires, often in emergency situations. It is not intended for use on an out-of-control fire, such as one which has reached the ceiling, endangers the user (i.e. no escape route, smoke, explosion hazard, etc.), or otherwise requires the expertise of a fire department. Typically, a fire extinguisher consists of a hand-held cylindrical pressure vessel containing an agent which can be discharged to extinguish a fire.

Info from: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1KBLBvt5Wi7aOxFv1kEW3n872EU8-cwoUHjcIZ802KxQ/edit?hl=en_US

Inspect fire extinguishers at least once a month (more often in severe environments).
Fire extinguisher maintenance is important for everyone’s safety.

You must ensure that:

  • Fire ExtinguisherThe extinguisher is not blocked by equipment, coats or other objects that could interfere with access in an emergency.
  • The pressure is at the recommended level. On extinguishers equipped with a gauge (such as that shown on the right), the needle should be in the green zone - not too high and not too low.
  • The nozzle or other parts are not hindered in any way.
  • The pin and tamper seal (if it has one) are intact.
  • There are no dents, leaks, rust, chemical deposits and/or other signs of abuse/wear. Wipe off any corrosive chemicals, oil, gunk etc. that may have deposited on the extinguisher.

Some manufacturers recommend shaking your dry chemical extinguishers once a month to prevent the powder from settling/packing.

Fire extinguishers should be pressure tested (a process called hydrostatic testing) after a number of years to ensure that the cylinder is safe to use. Consult your owner's manual, extinguisher label or the manufacturer to see when yours may need such testing.

If the extinguisher is damaged or needs recharging, replace it immediately!

Info and image from: http://www.fire-extinguisher101.com/careandmaintenance.html

Classifications:

Extinguisher_usage

Image from: http://www.krpservices.com/fire_extinguishers.htm

Fist aid:

A First aid box must be reachable in a work shop. If someone cuts them selves or badly injures themself, the first aid box must have the correct equipment to temporarily cure the injury. A first aid kit must contain the following:

  • 9 sterile cotton gauze swabs, 75 mm x 75 mm
  • 1 pocket pack of 10 tissues
  • 24 assorted adhesive strip dressings
  • 1 roll adhesive tape, 25 mm wide
  • 2 sterile non-adhesive dry dressings, 100 mm x 100 mm
  • 3 sterile wound dressings and bandages
  • 3 roller (stretch-cotton) bandages, 50, 75 and 100 mm wide
  • 2 triangular calico bandages
  • 5 safety pins
  • 1 pair rust-resistant scissors
  • 1 pair rust-resistant forceps
  • 1 pencil and notepad
  • 3 individual plastic bags
  • 1 sterile combine dressing, 9 mm x 20 mm
  • Aluminium foil blanket
  • 1 pair latex gloves
  • 1 first-aid booklet.

Info from: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1KBLBvt5Wi7aOxFv1kEW3n872EU8-cwoUHjcIZ802KxQ/edit?hl=en_US

first-aid-kit

Image from: http://shopping-information.blogspot.com/2009/08/first-aid-kit-and-training.html

Fire Exits:

Every workshop will have a door with a sign saying: “EXIT” this is a fire exit door. There must be nothing in the way of this/these door(s) because in an emergency (Like a fire breakout) everyone will be running to these doors trying to escape from danger. This is where fire extinguishers come in handy as well, as you can take care of the fire yourself (Up close and personal).

Info from: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1KBLBvt5Wi7aOxFv1kEW3n872EU8-cwoUHjcIZ802KxQ/edit?hl=en_US

showimage.php

Image from: http://www.abacusshutters.co.uk/steel-fire-exit-doors.php

Tool safety-Hammer:

No matter what kind of hammer you use, you must be careful with it. When you grab it: hold it down the bottom of the handle as if you are shaking someone's hand(Ref: Calvin B). When you use the hammer, ensure  that you are wearing eye protection as some shards of what ever you are hitting may fly and get your face. Ensure that every time you hit your work, that the hammer face is hitting flat on the surface of your project/work etc.

Info from: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1KBLBvt5Wi7aOxFv1kEW3n872EU8-cwoUHjcIZ802KxQ/edit?hl=en_US

mlss_mario-hammer

Image from: http://www.divanikkiz.com/site/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=62:bounty-hammer

Tool safety-Hacksaw:

Ensure that the blade isn’t, cracked, chipped, blunt, or loose. If the blade is loose, you can tighten it using the tightening nut usually located at the bottom of the handle. Do not tighten the handle too much, or else it may snap during the cutting process.

Info from: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1KBLBvt5Wi7aOxFv1kEW3n872EU8-cwoUHjcIZ802KxQ/edit?hl=en_US

Hack saw

Image from: http://www.clipartguide.com/_pages/0511-0903-2316-3625.html

Tool safety-Drill press:

When using a drill press: ensure that you have the correct size drill bit you want, make sure that the chuck is nice and tight so that the drill bit won’t slip or get stuck in the chuck. When drilling, pull the drill press down slowly or you will jam the drill bit. in your piece of metal/bit of work. Make sure you keep the drilling well lubricated.

Info from: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1KBLBvt5Wi7aOxFv1kEW3n872EU8-cwoUHjcIZ802KxQ/edit?hl=en_US

drill_press_all

Info from: http://www.efunda.com/processes/machining/drill_press.cfm

Tool safety-Files:

Try keeping the file straight. When you use a file, you should wear gloves so that you don’t cut yourself on the end of the file. Hold the file with your hand gripped around the “ball” end of the handle and flat on the end of the file with the other hand.

Image from: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1KBLBvt5Wi7aOxFv1kEW3n872EU8-cwoUHjcIZ802KxQ/edit?hl=en_US

freeimages.co.uk workplace images

Image from: http://withfriendship.com/user/sathvi/file-%28tool%29.php

Tool safety-Lathes:

When lathing, ensure you are at the desired gearing ratio, always work with safety goggles and have the protection cover down(That's if your lathe has one), work slowly, don’t be too fast, or else you may end up damaging your piece of work or the lathe. Never leave the chuck key in the chuck when you leave the lathe, as someone could accidentally turn it on and run around with a chuck key in their eye. (because they didn't wear eye protection)

Info from: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1KBLBvt5Wi7aOxFv1kEW3n872EU8-cwoUHjcIZ802KxQ/edit?hl=en_US

diagram-lathe

Image from: http://www.americanmachinetools.com/lathe_diagram.htm

Saturday, July 2, 2011

Marine trailers

Trailer materials                                 Trailer design

Trailer Types                                        Trailer mechanisms

Overall Dimensions                            Weights and Capacities

Wheels and Tyres                                Couplings

Lights                                                     Suspension Types

Hubs and Stubs                                     Brakes

Winches                                                W.O.F regulations

 

Trailer materials-Galvanized steel

In current use, the term refers to the coating of steel or iron with zinc. This is done to prevent galvanic corrosion (specifically rusting) of the ferrous item. The value of galvanising stems from the relative corrosion resistance of zinc, which, under most service conditions, is considerably less than those of iron and steel. The effect of this is that the zinc is consumed first as a sacrificial anode, so that it protects exposed steel. This means that in case of scratches through the zinc coating, the exposed steel will be  protected by the surrounding zinc coating, unlike an item which is painted with no prior galvanising, where a scratched surface would rust. Furthermore, galvanising for protection of iron and steel is favoured because of its low cost, the ease of application, and the extended maintenance-free service that it provides.

Info from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanization#Metal_protection

Hot-Dip-Galvanized-Steel-Coil

Image from: http://smsteel.en.made-in-china.com/product/qbyJFcKVrzkx/China-Hot-Dip-Galvanized-Steel-Coil.html

Trailer materials-Aluminium

Aluminium is the most widely used non-ferrous metal. Relatively pure aluminium is encountered only when corrosion resistance and/or workability is more important than strength or hardness. A thin layer of aluminium can be deposited onto a flat surface by physical vapour deposition or (very infrequently) chemical vapour deposition or other chemical means to form optical coatings and mirrors.

Info from: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aluminium#Applications

WT - 455

Image from: http://www.hydro.com/en/Subsites/Hydro-Aluminium-Precision-Tubing/HVACR/Products-systems/Hydro-HVACR-product-range/Aluminium-welded-tubes/

Trailer types-Single axle

Single axle trailers are made for light boats, generally up to  a maximum mass of 2tones. They are very easy to manoeuvre compared to tandem axle trailers as there is only one pair of wheels that pivot around one centre point. It isn't very common for this type of trailer to have brakes as the brakes on the towing vehicle would be enough to slow this down.

Info from: https://docs.google.com/present/edit?id=0AUMgndAxsd76ZGY1Mm45OThfMGdia2RraDY0&hl=en_US

tn_Single-Axle-Sailboat-Galvanized-Boat-Trailer-made-by-Loadmaster-Trailer

Image from: http://www.loadmastertrailerco.com/galvanized-boat-trailers/

Trailer types-Tandem axle

Tandem axle trailers have to axles with four wheels to spread the load across a larger area, meaning you can have a much longer trailer which can hold a heavier load up to at least 4-5tones.

these types of trailers have usually got hydraulic or cable brakes to help slow the trailer down when the towing vehicle brakes, instead of the towing vehicle trying to stop the trailer by itself. The carried boat size is mostly 5.5 to 8 or 9 meters.

Info from: https://docs.google.com/present/edit?id=0AUMgndAxsd76ZGY1Mm45OThfMGdia2RraDY0&hl=en_US

1294610222_69609919_5-TANDEM-AXLE-BOAT-TRAILERS-FOR-SALE-nationwide-2011s-Virginia

Image from: http://sandston.olx.com/tandem-axle-boat-trailers-for-sale-nationwide-2011s-iid-69609919

Trailer types-Triple axle:

Triple-Axle trailers are made for boats longer than 8 meters, and weigh more than 5tones. They aren't usually used on the public roads much as they are very difficult to manoeuvre around tight corners because of the sheer length. They are usually used to transport million dollar luxury cruisers or yachts around big boat yards. They need to have brakes because the mass of the boat and trailer would be too heavy for the towing vehicle to stop it with it's own brakes.

Info from: https://docs.google.com/present/edit?id=0AUMgndAxsd76ZGY1Mm45OThfMGdia2RraDY0&hl=en_US

rezkill_seavee_boat_trailer

Image from: http://www.realxtrailers.com/Standard-Trailer-Features/

Trailer designs: A-Frame:

The front end of the trailer goes to the coupling in an A shape. The A-frame design is made for heavy duty trailers where there needs to be more weight distribution across the trailer compared to the Drawbar design. This means you can have a longer boat to tow as you don't have a long separation between the nose of the boat and the end of the towing vehicle.

Info from: https://docs.google.com/present/edit?id=0AUMgndAxsd76ZGY1Mm45OThfMGdia2RraDY0&hl=en_US

TrailerFrame

Image from: http://www.stonehouseforge.com/our_work3.htm

Trailer design-Draw bar/Pole tongue:

The frame of the trailer goes to a point, then a bar attaches to the coupling  The Drawbar design is used for trailers that carry lighter loads than A-Frame trailers. But sometimes they can carry the same load mass depending on the materials used. The trailer has a smaller area for the load/boat to sit on, thus the ability to tow smaller, shorter, and loads with easy manoeuvrability .

Info from: https://docs.google.com/present/edit?id=0AUMgndAxsd76ZGY1Mm45OThfMGdia2RraDY0&hl=en_US

trailer1

Image from: http://ausfish.com.au/vforum/showthread.php?149389-Extending-Trailer-Drawbar

Trailer mechanisms-Rollers:

The rolling mechanism is the most widely used style for launching, and winching boats on and off trailers. Other than trailers with the bunks/skids holding the boat, the rollers help the boat roll/glide centered properly on the trailer. They are more expensive to manufacture, as they can rock on a point to form a 'V' shape, or be flat, other than bunks which are manufactured at a permanent angle.

Info from: https://docs.google.com/present/edit?id=0AUMgndAxsd76ZGY1Mm45OThfMGdia2RraDY0&hl=en_US

trailer

Image from: http://www.watsonsmarine.com.au/boat_trailers.php

Trailer designs-Bunks/skids:

This design is mostly used for the light sport craft trailers used to carry jet skis and other small boats with a relatively flat hull that don't need accurate cantering. Although sometimes if a trailer with this design carries a larger boat,(1-2tone) there are sometimes rollers going up the centre of the trailer to keep the boat well centered, but mostly, there are bunks angled as a 'V' to cradle the bottom of the hull, when  being winched onto the trailer. Bunks are cheaper to manufacture than rollers, and are made in a 'V' shape, lined with carpet or fabric to stop the hull from being scratched, and reduce friction when launching and winching up the boat.

Info from: https://docs.google.com/present/edit?id=0AUMgndAxsd76ZGY1Mm45OThfMGdia2RraDY0&hl=en_US

A bunk trailer with rollers in the centre

0_l

Image from: http://www.southcoasttrailers.co.uk/product.php?cat_id=12&sub_id=0&pro_id=79

A bunk trailer with skids angled as a V in the center

CenterBunk

Image from: http://timnoblestrailers.com/gallery.html

Over all dimensions:

Depending on the frame configuration of your trailer. Usually, the trailer should be 1-2ft longer than the overall boat length. It will allow sufficient manoeuvring and turning clearance between the trailer and the towing vehicle, and to have enough space for items such as; winch and V block, tow bar coupler, jockey wheel, spare trailer wheel etc.

Overall dimensions-Length:

Length: If you own a boat you can tow a trailer that can be 11.5m long, assuming that the car plus the boat doesn't exceed 20m which is the limit.

Overall dimensions-Width:

The maximum allowable width for trailers is 2.5 meters (excluding side marker lights, direction indicators and the bulge towards the bottom of the tyre). The only extra width allowed is:

240mm each side for collapsible mirrors

25mm each side for ropes, lashings, straps, chains, connectors and tensioning devices that aren't permanently or rigidly fixed to the vehicle; or J-hooks (to secure stock crates or bins)

75mm for hub odometers on a non-retracting, non-steering axle on each vehicle and on the axle that minimises the extra width

75mm for central tyre inflation (CTI) system hoses.

Overall dimensions-Height:

The maximum allowable height is 4.25 metres. An additional 25mm above 4.25 metres is allowed for tarpaulins, covers and lashings, straps, chains, covers, and related connectors and tensioning devices that aren't permanently or rigidly fixed to the vehicle. The height of the body or load of class TD trailers (those with a gross vehicle mass exceeding 10 tonnes) may be restricted by stability requirements – particularly the need for the vehicle to have a minimum static roll threshold (SRT: The static roll threshold of a vehicle is a measure of the potential for that vehicle to roll over sideways. Vehicles with a low SRT are more likely to roll over than those with a higher SRT, especially when going around sharp bends and in sudden emergency manoeuvres. That means the lower your SRT the less stable your vehicle is).

Overall dimensions-Ground clearance:

The minimum ground clearance for heavy trailers (IE: those with a gross vehicle mass over 3.5 tonnes) is 100mm. The ground clearance also has to be at least 6 percent of the distance from the nearest axle to the point where the ground clearance is measured.

Info from: https://docs.google.com/present/edit?id=0AUMgndAxsd76ZGY1Mm45OThfMGdia2RraDY0&hl=en_US

Suspension types-Leaf springs:

these are the most commonly used springs for all kinds of loads from 140lb(64kg) to heavy boats that requiring big springs with even more leaves. They come in two basic types: double eye, eye-and-slipper. both permit easy access for inspection and maintenance. however, these types of springs are hard to maintain because moisture can get in between the leaves/slats and start corroding them.

Info from: https://docs.google.com/present/edit?id=0AUMgndAxsd76ZGY1Mm45OThfMGdia2RraDY0&hl=en_US

Car-Leafsprings

Image from: http://automotivepartsuppliers.com/difference-coil-spring-leafsprings/

Suspension types-Spring/Coil/Shock absorbers:

This type of suspension is not usually used on trailers as this setup would seem to be too complex to manufacture. They are used for relatively light loads, often in conjunction with shock absorbers. they give a relatively soft ride and have no major draw backs. Their complexity is the reason why they are less common on on boat trailers.

Info from: https://docs.google.com/present/edit?id=0AUMgndAxsd76ZGY1Mm45OThfMGdia2RraDY0&hl=en_US

atrailer_8

Image from: http://www.campertrailers.org/stuarts_camper.htm

Suspension types-Torsion bars:

Torsion bars are designed to support torsional motion. They are a self-contained unit so there is no need for Springs, shock absorbers or other  suspension components. They can be mounted to reduce frame height, and on a tandem axle or tri-axle trailer, each wheel can independently absorb a road shock without affecting any of each other, but they cost more to manufacture than conventional axles and if water or moisture gets inside the outer tube of a  unit that is not galvanized, unseen corrosion/rust can develop.

Info from: https://docs.google.com/present/edit?id=0AUMgndAxsd76ZGY1Mm45OThfMGdia2RraDY0&hl=en_US

shock-absorbing

Image from: http://www.marathonpowerproducts.com/features.html

Weights and capacities:

Trailer Weight Estimates

This chart only shows weight capacities of single axle trailers

Trailer                  No.                Trailer               Trailer          Weight
Capacity              Axles              Length               Width            
1000 lbs                1                    15'4"                    62"            295 lbs

1500 lbs                1                    15'4"                    62"            305 lbs

2000 lbs                1                    17'2"                    88"            492 lbs

2450 lbs                1                    18'2"                    96"            522 lbs

2999 lbs                1                    18'2"                    96"            625 lbs

3500 lbs                1                    19'8"                    96"            677 lbs

5000 lbs                1                    20'8"                    96"            933 lbs

7000 lbs                1                    27'9"                    96"            1512 lbs

Info from: https://docs.google.com/present/edit?id=0AUMgndAxsd76ZGY1Mm45OThfMGdia2RraDY0&hl=en_US

Bearings-Hubs and Stubs:

There are two types of bearings: Ball type, and Taper roller bearings. Bearings must be well lubricated to stop them corroding, and most of all, seizing up. The ball type bearing is usually seen on the old style trailers and isn't very commonly seen on modern day trailers. The taper roller bearing is the most common type of bearings found on trailers. This type of bearing can create a lot of free-play, so it is important to keep it well adjusted to maintain it's 'long life'.

Info from: https://docs.google.com/present/edit?id=0AUMgndAxsd76ZGY1Mm45OThfMGdia2RraDY0&hl=en_US

Ball type bearing:

Self_Aligning_BB_rdax_95

Image from: http://www.nskamericas.com/cps/rde/xchg/na_en/hs.xsl/self-aligning-ball-bearings.html

Taper roller bearing:

Taper roller bearing

Image from: http://www.skf.com/portal/skf/home/aptitudexchange?contentId=0.237932.237939.774331.774333.518442

Wheels and tyres:

It is very important to have wheels and tyres large enough so as to support the weight of the trailer, boat and equipment when travelling at open road speeds.
If the wheel and tyre combination is too small, the tyre will fail due to overheating.

Wheels and tyres-Bias construction:

Bias tyre (or cross ply) construction utilizes body ply cords that extend diagonally from bead to bead, usually at angles in the range of 30 to 40 degrees, with successive plies laid at opposing angles forming a crisscross pattern to which the tread is applied. The design allows the entire tire body to flex easily, providing the main advantage of this construction, a smooth ride on rough surfaces. This cushioning characteristic also causes the major disadvantages of a bias tire: increased rolling resistance and less control and traction at higher speeds.

Info from: http://etcentre.co.uk/pages/TyrePage.html

tyrebiascrossply

Image from: http://etcentre.co.uk/pages/TyrePage.html

Wheels and tyres-Radial construction:

Radial ply tyres are now the most common tyres in use on British roads representing more than 90%. Some radial ply tyres now have a run flat capability known as Self Supporting Run Flat (SST) tyres which are becoming more common particularly when fitted as an original equipment. Older diagonal (cross-) ply tyres are now very rarely seen and have effectively been replaced by radial ply tyres.

Info from: http://etcentre.co.uk/pages/TyrePage.html

tyreradial

Image from: http://etcentre.co.uk/pages/TyrePage.html

Wheels and tyres-Self supporting run flat (SSR)

Self Supporting Run Flat (SSR) tyres are designed to provide a limited run on period following a puncture. These are identified by the letters "RF" in the size marking. To be categorised as a run flat tyre, the minimum distance they must achieve in a run flat condition is 50 miles (80 km) at a maximum speed of 50 mph (80 km/h) and at a minimum of 80% of their maximum load capacity. It is essential the vehicle is equipped with a tyre pressure monitoring system to enable use of run flat tyres.

Info from: http://etcentre.co.uk/pages/TyrePage.html

tyreRunFlat

Image from: http://etcentre.co.uk/pages/TyrePage.html

Wheels and tyres-wheels:

It is crucial to have the correct size wheel to tow your boat on, preferably 14-15" for Single axle and tandem axle, and a larger size for triple axle(15 and up) The best material for wheels would be galvanized material, same as used on your trailer. This means that there will be less components on your trailer that have a chance to corrode or rust.

Info from: https://docs.google.com/present/edit?id=0AUMgndAxsd76ZGY1Mm45OThfMGdia2RraDY0&hl=en_US

13-5-Lug-Galvanized-Trailer-Wheel-Rim-Broad-00027-

Image from: http://clydecui.en.made-in-china.com/product/rMkxspoVgaRb/China-13-quot-5-Lug-Galvanized-Trailer-Wheel-Rim-Broad-00027-.html

Brakes:

There are tow designs for brakes and and two systems as to how brakes are made. There is disk and caliper, and the old fassioned Drum and shoe brake system. Both of them can be operated hydraulically or by cable.

Brakes-Drum and shoe:

Drum brakes are the simplest and easiest to manufacture as there are two shoes(operated hydraulically or by cable) being pushed against the inner wall of a drum type cover. This design isn't very sufficient for salt water trailers as water can get inside the drum and start corroding the moving parts.

Info from: https://docs.google.com/present/edit?id=0AUMgndAxsd76ZGY1Mm45OThfMGdia2RraDY0&hl=en_US

drum_brake

Image from: http://www.aa1car.com/library/drum_brakes.htm

Brakes-Dicks:

Disk brakes are more recommendable than drum brakes as they are stronger and they have less parts that can be corroded by salt water. They are mostly used for tandem axle and triple axle trailers as they have to carry a heavier load than single axle trailers. They are most commonly operated through a hydraulic tow coupling which pushes against a master cylinder when the towing vehicle brakes and sends the brake fluid to the brake callipers.

Info from:  https://docs.google.com/present/edit?id=0AUMgndAxsd76ZGY1Mm45OThfMGdia2RraDY0&hl=en_US

inboard_24

Image from: http://www.aquaskier.com/articles/2004_boat_buyers_guide.htm

Couplings:

Couplings are the most important part of a trailer as it is the mechanism which fits the trailer to the towing vehicle. There are two different designs, one made for braked trailers, and one for standard trailers. They are usually clamped/lock onto a tow ball by a spring loaded leaver. A non braked coupling can support at least 1.5t, where a braked coupling can support up to 3.5t.

Info from: https://docs.google.com/present/edit?id=0AUMgndAxsd76ZGY1Mm45OThfMGdia2RraDY0&hl=en_US

Standard coupling:

Standard trailer coupling

Image from: http://www.smartmarine.co.nz/trailer-coupling-lock-p-997.html

Braked coupling:

duofit_mechanical_override_coupling

Image from: http://www.trojan.co.nz/index.asp?PageID=2145834345

Winches-Manual:

Manual winches are designed to pull small boats and large boats onto the trailer. Depending on the set up/configuration of your winch, you should be able to bring in boats ranging from 1tone, to 3 or 4 tones max. They are different from the others. Some have more pulling power, and some have less. It all comes down to the gearing configuration each manufacturer makes the winch to be. 

Info from: https://docs.google.com/present/edit?id=0AUMgndAxsd76ZGY1Mm45OThfMGdia2RraDY0&hl=en_US

A manual winch:

Manual boat winch

Image from: http://www.ab1c.com/en/pro_show.asp?id=844&class1=6&class2=41

Winches-Electric:

Electrical winches are the bomb for retrieving heavy boats on really steep boat ramps. They are connected to the towing vehicle's battery supply by a wiring kit supplied by the maker. They use 12-15A with no load, and 80 amps or more with a full load. compared with the manual winches it is more expensive and requires more maintenance and watching over.

Info from: https://docs.google.com/present/edit?id=0AUMgndAxsd76ZGY1Mm45OThfMGdia2RraDY0&hl=en_US

Electric winch:

Electric winch

Image from: http://www.aubrett.com/auction/marine/crw/powerwinch.htm

Lights:

A trailer must display lights as per W.O.F. regulations, consisting of:

Marker lights; forward facing (white/clear) = turned on with vehicle side lights

Tail-lights; rearward facing (red) = turned on with vehicle side lights

Stop lights; rearward facing (red) = activated by towing vehicle stop lights

Indicators; rearward facing (red or orange) = activated by towing vehicle indicators
Reflectors; rearward facing (red) = illuminated by following vehicles lights.

Info from: https://docs.google.com/present/edit?id=0AUMgndAxsd76ZGY1Mm45OThfMGdia2RraDY0&hl=en_US

4 way wiring

Image from: http://www.accessconnect.com/trailer_wiring_diagram.htm

W.O.F regulations:

If you tow a light trailer (up to 3500kg when loaded), it must have a WoF. To meet the WoF standard your trailer must be in good condition (no rust around safety areas) and it must have the following equipment in good working order: 

A: A safe and strong coupling and a safety chain or cable.

B: If the trailer or its load is more than 2 metres wide, it must have two white lights at the front to show how wide it is.

C: Safe tyres – the tread depth must be at least 1.5mm right around the tyre.

D: Mudguards.

E: Two red reflectors at the back (one on each side).

trailer-features-side

Your trailer will also need the following features:

A: Two red lights at the back to show how wide the trailer is.

B: Direction indicators at the back.

C: Two red stop lights at the back, if the driver's signals can't be seen.

D: A number plate light at the back.

E: A current trailer WoF issued by a WoF inspector. This must be renewed:

  • every 12 months for the first six years, then
  • every six months after.

F: A licence label needs to be positioned close to the number plate.

trailer-features-back

Loading your trailer safely:

To ensure the stability of the vehicle and trailer combination when towing, the trailer should exert a downwards force on the towing vehicle's towbar equal to about 10 percent of the weight of the trailer plus its load.

The load on the trailer must not:

  • extend more than 4 metres behind the rear axle
trailer-no-oversize-load
  • extend more than 1.25 metres on either side from the centre of the trailer.
trailer-no-oversize-side

If the load extends more than 1 metre behind the trailer, you must tie on a white flag, or a red, orange or yellow fluorescent flag. The flag must be at least 40 centimetres by 30 centimetres in size. The load must be tied on firmly and must not touch the ground.

Info and images from: http://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/roadcode/about-your-vehicle/light-trailer-requirements.html